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- WORLD, Page 60Cat and Mouse in the Casbah
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- The children sound the alarm. "Soldiers!" cries a
- 13-year-old girl, peeking out the window of the dank
- second-story apartment. As she hides a framed picture of a
- "martyred" relative, wrapped in the outlawed Palestinian flag,
- three young men dash out the back door and flee down the narrow
- alleyway. When the Israeli soldiers hurl a stone through the
- open window, two middle-aged women cower on the bed, rocking
- back and forth in terror. "God help us," pleads Umm Hamada, 45,
- desperately rubbing her hands together.
-
- But the soldiers strike next door, ransacking the home of
- Rehab Abu Asab, 50. One of her four children is among the
- hundreds of Palestinians on the army's wanted list. "They've
- done this 14 times," she mutters. "Only God can stop them."
-
- The young men of the Casbah think differently. Each day
- they play a deadly game of cat and mouse with the Israeli
- patrols, attacking with rocks and Molotov cocktails -- and
- succumbing to the army's return fire of bullets and
- rubber-coated metal balls. In a single day the same filthy
- streets may be "liberated" and reoccupied a dozen times.
-
- The Casbah (pop. 22,000) lies in the heart of Nablus, the
- largest Arab city in the West Bank. After two years of revolt,
- the ancient and impoverished community has won distinction as
- the most dangerous turf in the occupied territories. The dense,
- mazelike architecture gives the Palestinians a home-court
- advantage, enabling the young shabab (activists) to vanish down
- secret passageways or disappear over rooftops. Nervous soldiers
- respond with trigger-happy brutality. The consequences: at least
- 23 residents have been killed by Israeli troops, and more than
- 1,000 wounded. Internecine bloodshed has claimed an additional
- 18 Arabs accused of collaborating with the Israelis. Israelis
- feel no safer. One soldier died when a concrete block was
- dropped on his head.
-
- Despite the lopsided statistics, the shabab boast of their
- accomplishments. "We've finally made the Israelis afraid of
- us," says an activist named Jamal, 21. His boyish face bespeaks
- both pride and intense anxiety. "You only die once," he says
- with some relief. Only once, like his friend Nadir Tayseer Abu
- Yasin, 14, who was "martyred" two days earlier. Jamal pulls out
- a photo of the dead boy taken moments after the shooting. "This
- is our fate."
-
- In the packed vegetable market, hurried transactions are
- interrupted by rumors of arrests and raids. By 11 a.m., the
- shops are shuttered and the shabab take over, attacking and
- evading soldiers. Five toughs from a Palestinian gang called the
- Black Panthers swagger down the street only two blocks from an
- Israeli foot patrol. "We're running our own state here," says
- a young "enforcer" as he demands identification from strangers.
- Two days earlier, the Panthers dragged Naima Ja'ara, 35, from
- her house and shot her in the head for allegedly collaborating
- with the Israelis.
-
- By dusk the streets are deserted. "Anyone who goes out at
- night may be shot on sight," says Abdel Nasser, 24. "We sit and
- think only of revenge." In a nearby hideout, Jamal and fellow
- activists gather to chain smoke, play cards and mythologize
- their suffering. When the claustrophobia becomes unbearable,
- they sneak up to the rooftop to stare at the stars and the
- sweeping spotlights from Israeli patrols. Says Bassem, 29, who
- has been on the run for a year: "I'm expecting one of two
- things: either prison or death in an ambush."
-
- The shabab are back on the streets by 6 in the morning,
- reclaiming their territory and gathering information. The news
- leaves them visibly shaken: Israeli soldiers stormed Abdel
- Nasser's house at 1:30 a.m. and hauled him off for
- interrogation. Seventeen other Palestinians were also arrested.
- "There is no escape from this nightmare," says Jamal, recalling
- his own time behind bars. "One night I even dreamed the soldiers
- had come and taken me away to prison." He awoke to the sound of
- soldiers bursting through the door.
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